Fried snails

Hohlioi boubouristoi — Cretan fried snails — are one of the Mediterranean’s great humble delicacies: snails floured and fried face-down in olive oil, splashed with rosemary and red wine vinegar until the kitchen smells like a Cretan taverna after the rain.

The name comes from boubouristi, “face down” — the snails go into the hot oil openings-down, sealing in their juices. On Crete they follow the rains, when snails are gathered from the hills; here, cleaned fresh snails from a Greek or specialty market do the honors.

If you are snail-curious, this is the gateway dish: crisp edges, tender meat, rosemary-vinegar sizzle, warm bread, and ideally a small glass of raki standing by.

Cretan Fried Snails Recipe

Prep time: 10 minutes (plus 1 hour soaking) · Cook time: 10 minutes · Total: about 1 hour 20 minutes · Servings: 4 · Calories: ~117 per serving

Ingredients

• 2 pounds fresh snails, well cleaned
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
• 2 to 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Instructions

1. Rinse the snails and soak them in salted water for an hour, changing the water until it runs clear. Drain and pat dry.
2. Coat the snails in the flour mixed with the salt, shaking off the excess.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and place the snails opening-down in the pan.
4. Fry 6 to 8 minutes, turning occasionally.
5. Add the rosemary and let it perfume the oil for 2 minutes.
6. Pour in the vinegar, let it sizzle and reduce, stirring to coat.
7. Serve hot, with warm bread for the pan juices.

Recipe Notes

• Cleaned, purged snails from a Greek or gourmet market save the traditional week of purging.
• The vinegar hiss at the end is the signature — stand back and enjoy the drama.
• On Crete this is mezze with raki; a crisp white works too.