Traditional portuguese roll (papos secos)

Papos secos are the bread of Portuguese daily life: the crusty, cloud-crumbed rolls that carry breakfast butter, lunchtime bifanas and every prego no pão ever served. Ask for “um pão” anywhere in Portugal and this is what lands in your hand.

The signature split down the middle is pure shaping — a firm press of the hand before the final rise — and the formula is four honest ingredients plus patience.

For emigrants, the smell of these baking is homesickness in reverse: suddenly you are eight years old at the padaria counter again. This recipe brings that bakery morning to an American kitchen.

Papos Secos Recipe

Prep time: 20 minutes (plus about 2 hours rising) · Cook time: 20 minutes · Total: about 2¾ hours · Servings: 8 · Calories: ~109 per serving

Ingredients

• 4 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 packet (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast
• 1¼ cups warm water (about 110°F)
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

Instructions

1. Mix the yeast and sugar into the warm water and let it bubble, 5 to 10 minutes.
2. Combine the flour and salt, add the yeast mixture and olive oil, and stir into a rough dough.
3. Knead 8 to 10 minutes by hand (or 5 with a dough hook), until smooth.
4. Rise in a greased, covered bowl 1 to 1½ hours, until doubled.
5. Punch down and divide into 8 to 10 pieces. Shape each into an oval and press a firm crease down the middle with the side of your hand.
6. Set on a parchment-lined sheet, cover, and rise 30 to 40 minutes more.
7. Preheat the oven to 425°F and bake 15 to 20 minutes, until golden and hollow-sounding.
8. Cool briefly on a rack — then butter one while warm, because you have earned it.

Recipe Notes

• A pan of water in the oven’s bottom makes the crust crustier — padaria physics.
• They are best the day of, and toast beautifully the day after.
• Split one and fill with a garlicky pork bifana for full Portuguese immersion.