Choco frito à moda de Setúbal

Choco frito is Setúbal on a plate. If you have ever been to that sunny port city south of Lisbon, you know: every seafood restaurant serves platters of golden fried cuttlefish, and choosing where to eat it is the town’s favorite argument.

My family visited Setúbal often when I was growing up, and choco frito with a squeeze of lemon was always the highlight. My mother made her own version at home too — garlic, lemon, a light dusting of flour, hot oil — and the smell of it frying still means happiness to me.

Living in the US, this is one of the dishes I make when the saudade hits. It is fast, forgiving and dangerously good with fries and a cold beer — exactly how Setúbal serves it.

Choco Frito Recipe

Prep time: 20 minutes (plus 1 hour marinating) · Cook time: 15 minutes · Total: about 1½ hours · Servings: 4 · Calories: ~195 per serving

Ingredients

• 1¾ pounds cuttlefish, cut into strips
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• Juice of 1 lemon
• Olive oil, as needed
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• Flour, for dredging
• Oil, for frying

Instructions

1. Season the cuttlefish strips with the chopped garlic, a drizzle of olive oil, the lemon juice, salt and pepper.
2. Marinate for 1 hour.
3. Heat a generous amount of oil in a frying pan.
4. Dredge the strips in flour and fry until golden.
5. Drain on paper towels.
6. Serve hot with lemon wedges — and fries, if you want the full Setúbal experience.

Recipe Notes

• Corn flour gives an even crispier crust than wheat flour.
• Add chili to the marinade if you like heat.
• Garlic aioli, lemon-herb sauce or just a squeeze of lemon are the best companions.
• Cuttlefish is available frozen at Portuguese, Spanish and Asian markets; squid works in a pinch.