Saganaki (Greek Pan-Fried Cheese)

I have made a lot of fried cheese on this site, from my Azorean queijo São Jorge (recipe on the site) to the little Greek tiropitakia and peinirli I already have up, but I honestly cannot believe it took me this long to post saganaki, the classic flaming cheese that shows up at every Greek taverna and, at least at the restaurant near us, gets carried to the table by a waiter yelling opa while everyone else stops eating to watch.

Saganaki is named for the small two-handled pan it is traditionally fried in, not for a specific cheese, though kefalotyri or kefalograviera are the classic choices, both firm, salty sheep’s milk cheeses that hold their shape beautifully in a hot pan instead of melting into a puddle. The whole thing is fried until the outside is a deep golden crust, then, if you are feeling theatrical, doused with warmed brandy and set alight for a few seconds before a squeeze of lemon puts out the flame and cuts through the richness.

You do not have to flambe it, I want to be clear about that, plenty of tavernas serve it without the fire and it is still excellent. My kids beg for the flaming version purely for the show, Sofia counts down from three like it is a rocket launch, but I usually just do a quiet stovetop version on a Tuesday and nobody complains. Either way, serve it the second it comes out of the pan with warm bread or pita for scooping.

Saganaki Recipe

Prep time: 10 minutes · Cook time: 8 minutes · Total: 18 minutes · Servings: 4 · Calories: ~250 per serving

Ingredients

• 8 ounces kefalotyri or kefalograviera cheese, cut into one 3/4-inch thick slab (firm pecorino or provolone work as substitutes)
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons brandy or Metaxa (optional, for flambeing)
• 1/2 lemon
• Crusty bread or pita, for serving

Instructions

1. Rinse the cheese slab briefly under cold water and pat it very dry with paper towels; this helps the flour coating stick.
2. Dredge the cheese in the flour, coating both sides and the edges, and shake off any excess.
3. Heat the olive oil in a small, heavy skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the cheese and fry 2 to 3 minutes per side, until deep golden brown and slightly softened but still holding its shape.
4. If flambeing: remove the pan from the heat. Warm the brandy separately in a small pan or microwave for a few seconds (this helps it ignite), pour it over the cheese, and carefully light it with a long match or lighter, standing back. Let the flame burn out on its own, about 10 to 15 seconds, then squeeze the lemon half over the top to extinguish any remaining flame and add brightness.
5. If skipping the flambe, simply remove from heat and squeeze the lemon over the cheese while it is still hot.
6. Serve immediately, straight from the pan, with warm bread for scooping up any melted bits.

Recipe Notes

• Food safety note: if you flambe, keep long hair and sleeves back, never pour alcohol directly from the bottle into an already flaming pan, and keep a lid nearby to smother the flame if needed.
• Kefalotyri and kefalograviera are sold at most Greek or Mediterranean grocers; if you cannot find either, a firm aged pecorino or provolone will still fry up nicely.
• Serve this the instant it is ready. Saganaki firms up quickly as it cools and loses that just-fried, slightly soft center.
• No flambe, no problem, the dish is just as delicious pan-fried with only the lemon squeeze at the end.