Bougatsa (Greek Custard-Filled Phyllo Pastry)

Thessaloniki does breakfast pastry better than almost anywhere I’ve been, and bougatsa is the reason. It’s a tray of semolina custard baked between layers of butter-brushed phyllo, cut into squares, and dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon, sold from bakery windows to people eating it standing up on their way to work.

I first had it on a trip before the kids were born, standing on a street corner at eight in the morning with a paper wrapper already going translucent from the butter, and I’ve been chasing that memory in my own kitchen ever since. It’s not a Portuguese recipe, obviously, but the instinct behind it, custard and pastry and a strong coffee to go with it, feels close enough to home that it earned a spot here.

If you’ve made the Ekmek Kataifi (recipe on the site) or Rizogalo (recipe on the site) from this site, the semolina custard base will feel familiar; it’s a workhorse in Greek desserts, and bougatsa is one of its best showcases.

Bougatsa Recipe

Prep time: 25 minutes · Cook time: 40 minutes · Total: 1 hour 5 minutes · Servings: 12 · Calories: ~260 per serving

Ingredients

• 1 package phyllo dough (about 1 pound), thawed according to package directions
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
• 4 cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup fine semolina
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 3 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• Pinch of salt
• Powdered sugar, for dusting
• Ground cinnamon, for dusting

Instructions

1. Make the custard: heat the milk in a saucepan over medium heat until steaming but not boiling. Whisking constantly, sprinkle in the semolina in a slow stream. Continue cooking and whisking 5 to 8 minutes, until thickened to a porridge-like consistency.
2. Remove from heat and whisk in the sugar. Let cool 5 minutes, then whisk in the eggs one at a time, followed by the vanilla and salt. Set aside to cool slightly while you prepare the phyllo.
3. Preheat the oven to 375F and butter a 9×13-inch baking dish.
4. Lay a sheet of phyllo in the dish, letting excess hang over the edges, and brush lightly with melted butter. Repeat with half the phyllo sheets, buttering each layer.
5. Pour the custard over the phyllo base and spread evenly.
6. Layer the remaining phyllo sheets on top, buttering each one, tucking or trimming the overhanging edges as you go. Brush the top generously with the remaining butter and score into squares with a sharp knife, cutting only through the top layers.
7. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until deep golden brown and crisp on top.
8. Cool at least 15 minutes before cutting along the scored lines. Dust generously with powdered sugar and cinnamon just before serving.

Recipe Notes

• Keep the phyllo sheets you’re not currently using covered with a slightly damp kitchen towel; they dry out and crack within minutes of being exposed to air.
• Fine semolina is different from coarse semolina used for pasta; look for it at Greek, Middle Eastern, or Italian grocers, or substitute farina, labeled Cream of Wheat in the US, in a pinch.
• Bougatsa is best the day it’s baked, ideally still slightly warm; the phyllo softens as it sits.
• A savory version filled with feta and greens instead of custard is also traditional, but this sweet version is the classic Thessaloniki street-food style.