Simit are the sesame-crusted bread rings sold from red carts on nearly every corner in Istanbul: twisted, dipped in grape molasses, rolled thick in sesame seeds, and baked until the crust turns dark and crisp around a soft, chewy inside.

The dough itself is a simple, straightforward yeasted bread, nothing exotic there. What makes simit taste like simit is the molasses dip before baking, traditionally pekmez, a thick grape syrup that gives the crust its deep color and faint fruity edge, and helps the sesame seeds toast into something nuttier and darker than a plain sesame bagel ever gets. Twisting two ropes of dough together before shaping the ring also gives it that distinctive spiral texture, with lots of nooks for the seeds to cling to.

Grape molasses (pekmez) is worth buying a bottle for; it keeps for a long time. If you enjoy chewy, well-seasoned Mediterranean breads, Manakish Za’atar and Msemen (recipes on the site) are two more weekend baking projects, and simit look great next to a plate of Bolo do Caco (recipe on the site) for two very different bread traditions on one table.

Simit Recipe

What you need

Ingredients

For the dough:
1 cup warm water (about 110F)
2 1/4 teaspoons (1 packet) active dry yeast
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
For the coating:
1/2 cup grape molasses (pekmez), or substitute 1/3 cup regular molasses mixed with 3 tablespoons honey
1/2 cup warm water
1 1/2 cups raw sesame seeds

Cook along

Instructions

In a small bowl, stir together the warm water, yeast, and sugar. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, until foamy.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Make a well in the center, pour in the yeast mixture and vegetable oil, and mix until a shaggy dough forms.
Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead for 8 to 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Place in an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm spot for about 1 hour, until doubled in size.
Punch down the dough and divide it into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a long rope about 20 inches long, then fold in half and twist the two strands together into a spiral rope. Bring the ends together to form a ring, pinching to seal.
In a shallow dish, whisk the grape molasses with the warm water. Spread the sesame seeds on a separate plate or tray.
Dip each dough ring into the molasses mixture, coating both sides, then press into the sesame seeds, turning to coat generously all over.
Place the rings on parchment-lined baking sheets, spaced apart, and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes while the oven preheats to 425F (220C).
Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until deep golden brown and firm.
Cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes before serving. Simit are best the day they are baked, split and eaten plain, or with cheese, olives, or jam.