On São Miguel and the other Azorean islands, lapas (limpets) were traditionally something you gathered off the rocks at low tide rather than something you bought.

Limpets are a classic of the Azores, scraped off the rocks at low tide and seared in their own shells with garlic butter and a squeeze of lemon. Done right, they need nothing else.

Lapas grelhadas is about as honest as Azorean food gets. The limpets get a fast blast of heat, just long enough to firm up and turn opaque, then get doused in sizzling garlic butter with a squeeze of lemon and a scatter of cilantro.

They are chewy in the pleasant, briny way that good clams or mussels are chewy, not in the rubbery way you get from overcooking. On São Miguel they are eaten at seaside grills with a cold Coral beer; at home, a stovetop version captures the same spirit.

Fresh limpets are hard to find at an average American grocery store, so the notes below explain the best substitutions.

The garlic butter alone is worth the trip to the fish counter. If you have made our Ameijoas à Bulhão Pato (recipe on the site), the flavors here will feel like familiar cousins.

Lapas Grelhadas (Azorean Grilled Limpets) Recipe

What you need

Ingredients

2 lbs fresh limpets in the shell, or substitute (see notes) cleaned littleneck clams or cockles
6 tablespoons butter
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus lemon wedges for serving
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
Coarse salt and black pepper, to taste
Crusty bread, for serving

Cook along

Instructions

If using fresh limpets, scrub the shells well. If substituting clams or cockles, soak in cold salted water for 20 minutes to purge any sand, then drain.
Heat a large heavy skillet or griddle over high heat with the olive oil.
Place the shellfish flat-side down (or in a single layer if using clams) directly on the hot surface. Cook 2 to 3 minutes until they firm up and begin to open or release from the shell.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook 30 seconds until fragrant but not browned. Add the wine and simmer 1 minute.
Pour the hot garlic butter directly over the shellfish in the pan. Add the lemon juice, season with salt and pepper, and toss gently for 1 to 2 minutes until everything is coated and heated through.
Scatter with cilantro or parsley and serve immediately, straight from the pan, with lemon wedges and crusty bread for mopping up the butter.