Trouxas de Ovos (Portuguese Convent Egg Yolk Purses)

Sofia went through a phase last year where she wanted to make every doce conventual she’d ever heard of, in order, starting with the ones with the strangest names. Trouxas de ovos, or little egg-yolk purses, won her over immediately, mostly because she liked saying trouxas out loud about forty times while we cooked.

These come from the same convent-kitchen tradition as our Ovos Moles de Aveiro (recipe on the site) and Toucinho do Céu (recipe on the site): centuries ago, nuns used egg whites to starch their habits and had a glut of leftover yolks, so they turned them into syrup-thickened pastes and shaped them into every form imaginable. This one is simple by convent standards, just egg yolks cooked slowly with sugar syrup until it turns into a soft, spoonable paste, then rolled into little balls and dusted with powdered sugar.

They’re rich, so a little goes a long way, which makes them a nice thing to have on hand after a big Sunday lunch. Once you’ve made the base paste here, you’ll notice it shows up again and again across our other egg-based sweets, so consider this your gateway into the whole conventual repertoire.

Trouxas de Ovos Recipe

Prep time: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour chilling · Cook time: 20 minutes · Total: 1 hour 50 minutes · Servings: about 16 pieces · Calories: ~140 per serving

Ingredients

• 10 large egg yolks
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 strip lemon zest (about 2 inches)
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water
• Powdered sugar, for dusting
• Butter, for greasing hands or molds

Instructions

1. In a small saucepan, combine the sugar, water, cinnamon stick, and lemon zest. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes to make a light syrup. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick and lemon zest.
2. Whisk the egg yolks until smooth, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve into another bowl to remove any stringy bits for a silky texture.
3. Slowly whisk about 1/4 cup of the warm syrup into the yolks to temper them, then pour the tempered yolks back into the saucepan with the remaining syrup, whisking constantly.
4. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens into a soft, spreadable paste, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the cornstarch slurry during the last minute to help it set. Do not let it boil, or the yolks will scramble.
5. Transfer the mixture to a shallow dish and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate at least 1 hour, until firm enough to handle.
6. Once firm, take small spoonfuls, about 1 tablespoon each, and roll into little balls or purses, lightly dusting your hands with powdered sugar to prevent sticking.
7. Dust generously with more powdered sugar and arrange in small paper cups just before serving.

Recipe Notes

• This egg-yolk paste, called doce de ovos, is the base for many Portuguese convent sweets; once you master it, use it to fill Pastel de Nata (recipe on the site) or Queijadas de Sintra (recipe on the site).
• Because this recipe uses raw egg yolks that are then fully cooked, make sure the mixture visibly thickens and reaches at least 160°F before removing from the heat; do not undercook it.
• Save the leftover egg whites in the freezer for a batch of Farófias (recipe on the site) another day.
• These keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days; let them come to room temperature before serving for the best texture.