Pastéis de Tentúgal are cigar-shaped pastries from the village of Tentúgal, in the Montemor-o-Velho area of the Coimbra district. The pastry is wrapped in an extremely thin, translucent dough that shatters when bitten, and the filling is doce de ovos, a soft egg yolk and sugar-syrup cream. The dish belongs to the Portuguese convent-sweets tradition, where egg yolks left over from clarifying wine and starching linen were turned into desserts, and the pastries are closely tied to the region around Tentúgal.
The traditional dough is stretched by hand over large cloth-covered tables until it is nearly transparent, a skill that takes years to master. A home kitchen in the United States gets a very close result from store-bought phyllo dough, brushed generously with butter so the layers bake up crisp and golden. The filling is cooked the classic way, by pouring a hot sugar syrup over egg yolks and gently thickening it, as in the Ovos Moles de Aveiro (recipe on the site) and Trouxas de Ovos (recipe on the site).
The pastries are dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon and eaten at room temperature or just slightly warm, usually with coffee. They keep for a day or two in an airtight container, although the crispness is best on the day they are baked.
Pastéis de Tentúgal Recipe
Ingredients
- For the egg yolk filling (doce de ovos):
- 3/4 cup (150 g) granulated sugar
- 1/3 cup (80 ml) water
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 1 strip lemon peel (about 2 inches)
- 6 large egg yolks
- For the pastry:
- 8 sheets phyllo dough (about 14 x 9 inches), thawed
- 6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter, melted
- To finish:
- 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Instructions
- Make the syrup. Combine the sugar, water, cinnamon stick, and lemon peel in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook without stirring for about 5 minutes, until the syrup reaches 230°F (110°C), the thread stage. Remove from the heat and discard the lemon peel and cinnamon stick.
- Temper the yolks. Whisk the egg yolks in a heatproof bowl until smooth. Pour the hot syrup in a thin stream while whisking constantly, so the yolks do not scramble.
- Thicken the filling. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 4 to 6 minutes, until it thickens enough that the bottom of the pan is visible for a moment when the spoon is dragged across. The filling should reach 160°F (71°C) for food safety. Transfer to a bowl, press plastic wrap onto the surface, and cool for about 20 minutes, until thick and spreadable.
- Prepare the oven and dough. Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment. Keep the phyllo covered with a slightly damp kitchen towel while working, since it dries out within minutes.
- Assemble. Cut each phyllo sheet in half crosswise. Stack two halves, brushing each with melted butter. Spoon 2 tablespoons of filling in a line along one short edge, leaving a 1-inch border. Fold in the long sides, then roll up tightly into a cigar shape. Repeat to make 8 pastries.
- Bake. Place the pastries seam side down on the baking sheet and brush the tops with the remaining butter. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until deep golden brown.
- Finish. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes. Mix the powdered sugar and cinnamon and dust over the pastries just before serving.
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