In Trás-os-Montes and much of northern Portugal, November means chestnuts, and the magusto, the chestnut roast that marks the start of winter, is not complete without a bottle of jeropiga. It is a fortified grape drink, sweet and warm with cinnamon.

The traditional method catches grape must right after pressing, while it is barely starting to ferment, and stops the fermentation with a good measure of aguardente. What is left is sweet, grapey and much gentler than straight brandy, the kind of drink that sneaks up on you. Since fresh must is not easy to find in the US, this recipe starts from good bottled grape juice, which gets remarkably close.

It belongs on the same shelf as Licor de Medronho (recipe on the site) and Ginjinha de Obidos (recipe on the site), Portugal’s other homemade sipping drinks. Make a batch in late summer or early fall and it will be ready right around the holidays.

Jeropiga Recipe

What you need

Ingredients

4 cups fresh red or purple grape juice, 100 percent juice with no added sugar (Concord grape juice is the closest widely available US option; use fresh-pressed juice from wine or Concord grapes if you have access)
2 cups brandy or aguardente (Portuguese grape brandy, bagaceira, if you can find it)
1/2 cup granulated sugar, adjusted to taste depending on the sweetness of the juice
1 cinnamon stick
2 to 3 whole cloves

Cook along

Instructions

In a large, clean glass jar or bottle, combine the grape juice and sugar, and stir until the sugar dissolves.
Add the brandy, cinnamon stick, and cloves.
Seal the jar tightly and store in a cool, dark place.
Let steep at least 3 to 4 weeks, gently shaking the jar once a week and tasting occasionally.
Once the flavor is rounded and mellow, strain out the cinnamon and cloves through a fine sieve or cheesecloth.
Bottle in clean glass bottles. It keeps for several months in a cool pantry.
Serve chilled or at room temperature in small glasses, alongside roasted chestnuts.