Espetada Madeirense (Madeira Beef Skewers)

I did not grow up eating espetada. My roots are Trans-os-Montes on one side and Sao Miguel in the Azores on the other, and Madeira is its own island altogether, with its own stubborn pride about doing things its own way.

I first had real espetada at a friend’s backyard cookout years ago here in the States, when her Madeiran father-in-law skewered cubes of beef onto fresh bay branches and set them straight over hot coals with nothing but garlic and coarse salt. No marinade of ketchup and brown sugar, no fuss. I stood there a little stunned that something so plain could taste so good.

The whole point of espetada is simple: good beef, a lot of garlic, coarse salt, and real heat. It gets threaded onto skewers (traditionally bay laurel branches, which the Madeirans use both for flavor and because they are sturdy and free) and grilled hot and fast so the outside chars while the inside stays juicy. Then it gets hung, dripping, right over warm bread so every last drop of garlicky, beefy juice soaks in.

If you have not made my Bolo do Caco (recipe on the site) yet, this is your excuse, because that soft, griddled Madeiran flatbread was basically invented to sit under a skewer and catch its drippings.

My husband has claimed this one as his official grill night specialty, mostly because it requires standing outside with tongs looking very serious, which he enjoys. Lucas, my resident savory-food quality inspector, has declared it superior to any hot dog, which in eight-year-old currency is about as high a compliment as food gets. Max the dog sits at a respectful distance from the grill, which is his way of showing extremely good behavior in the presence of beef.

Espetada Madeirense (Madeira Beef Skewers) Recipe

Prep time: 20 minutes, plus 4 hours marinating · Cook time: 15 minutes · Total: 4 hours 35 minutes · Servings: 6 · Calories: ~380 per serving

Ingredients

• For the skewers:
• 2 1/2 lbs beef sirloin or ribeye, cut into 1.5-inch cubes
• 8 to 10 whole garlic cloves, smashed
• 2 bay leaves, crumbled, plus a few whole leaves for tucking between the meat
• 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper, coarsely ground
• 1/4 cup dry white wine (or Madeira wine, if you want to go all the way)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• For serving:
• 1 loaf Bolo do Caco or other crusty bread, warmed
• 4 tablespoons butter, melted with 2 minced garlic cloves and chopped parsley

Instructions

1. In a large bowl, combine the smashed garlic, crumbled bay leaves, salt, pepper, wine, and olive oil. Add the beef cubes and toss well to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator at least 4 hours, or overnight.
2. If using wooden or bamboo skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes before threading. Thread the beef cubes tightly onto skewers, tucking a small bay leaf between pieces here and there.
3. Heat a grill to high heat (or use a heavy stovetop grill pan over high heat).
4. Grill the skewers for 12 to 15 minutes total, turning every few minutes, until well charred on the outside and medium inside.
5. Let the skewers rest for 5 minutes.
6. Serve immediately over warm Bolo do Caco or crusty bread, drizzling the garlic butter over the meat and bread so the juices soak in as you eat.

Recipe Notes

• Traditionally, espetada is threaded onto fresh bay laurel branches, which perfume the meat as it grills. If you can find fresh bay branches at a specialty or Mediterranean grocer, use them instead of metal skewers for the real Madeiran effect.
• Sourcing tip: Madeira wine is sold at most well-stocked liquor stores near the sherry and port. If you cannot find it, dry Marsala or a dry sherry are reasonable substitutes.
• Do not marinate longer than 24 hours. The salt will start to cure the meat rather than season it, and the texture suffers.
• If you somehow have leftovers, the meat makes an excellent sandwich filling the next day with extra garlic butter and a squeeze of lemon.