We already have the two rissóis that every Portuguese bakery case is built around: the shrimp version and the ground meat version, both already on the site and both, frankly, non-negotiable at any self-respecting family party. This is the third member of the family, the one that gets made a little less often at home but shows up just as reliably at any pastelaria worth its salt — the fish version, usually built around flaked white fish or salt cod folded into the same rich béchamel filling, sealed in that same crisp, golden half-moon shell.
Fish rissóis are a little different from the shrimp ones: the filling is more forgiving, a little like a savory croquette in a very good coat, and it is an excellent way to use up a small amount of leftover cooked fish or salt cod without anyone realizing it started life as leftovers. They are underrated.
These do take a bit of assembly-line patience, breading and shaping one after another, but they freeze beautifully raw, which means a single afternoon of work buys you appetizers for months. Put on some fado, pour yourself something, and get into a rhythm.
Rissóis de Peixe Recipe
Ingredients
- For the filling:
- 1 pound flaky white fish fillets (cod, haddock, or hake), or cooked, flaked salt cod
- 1 bay leaf
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 cups whole milk, warmed
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
- Salt and white or black pepper, to taste
- Pinch of nutmeg
- For the dough:
- 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
- 1 cup water
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- For breading and frying:
- 2 large eggs, beaten
- 1 1/2 cups plain breadcrumbs
- Vegetable oil, for frying
Instructions
- If using fresh fish, poach it gently in salted water with the bay leaf for 6 to 8 minutes, until just cooked through. Drain, cool slightly, and flake finely, removing any bones. Skip this step if using pre-cooked flaked salt cod.
- Make the filling: melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook 4 to 5 minutes until soft, then add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Gradually whisk in the warm milk and cook, stirring constantly, for 4 to 5 minutes, until very thick — thicker than a typical béchamel, almost paste-like. Fold in the flaked fish, parsley, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Spread the filling on a plate, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, until firm enough to handle.
- Meanwhile, make the dough: combine the water, butter, and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon until it forms a smooth ball that pulls away from the sides of the pan. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead briefly until smooth. Cover and let rest 15 minutes.
- Roll the dough out thinly (about 1/8 inch) on a well-floured surface. Cut into 3-inch circles with a cookie cutter or glass. Place a scant tablespoon of the chilled filling in the center of each circle, fold over into a half-moon, and press the edges firmly to seal, crimping with a fork if you like. Re-roll scraps as needed.
- Set up a breading station: beaten eggs in one bowl, breadcrumbs in another. Dip each rissole in egg, then coat thoroughly in breadcrumbs, pressing gently so they adhere.
- Heat about 2 inches of vegetable oil in a deep, heavy pot to 350°F (175°C). Fry the rissoles in batches of 5 to 6, turning once, for 2 to 3 minutes total, until deeply golden. Drain on paper towels and serve hot.
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